Subject: RPF Costumes FAQ v.1.1 (regular posting) From: Chris Laning Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 19:17:20 -0800 ========================================= Costumes for the REC Renaissance Pleasure Faires v.1.1 ========================================= First off, if you are a *paying visitor* to RPFN (the Renaissance Pleasure Faire at Black Point Forest, Novato, in Northern California) or RPFS (the one in Southern California) -- or, for that matter, *any* Faire -- you can wear whatever you want. As the joke goes, "We encourage people to come in costume, but we don't say *what* costume!" You can come as a wizard, Druid, princess, Robin Hood, or whatever, and no one will mind. (Even if they do mind, they shouldn't hassle you.) However, you might be interested in the information here if you (1) want to make a costume that is more authentic; (2) want a costume that is more like what the regular Faire workers wear (which is close to, but not exactly the same thing as #1); (3) think you might want to *be* a Faire worker and want to know what's involved, or (4) can hardly wait to work Faire and want to start your costume ahead of time. If you *are* a regular Faire performer or worker, you must have your actual costume approved by the Costume department before Faire so you can get your gate pass. That's the kind of costume I'll be discussing here and what is meant by saying something is "approvable" or "acceptable." This collection of notes is not intended to be comprehensive, but just to address some basic concepts and common questions and problems. It's also only about "generic," English, lower to middle class costumes, because that's what most people wear. Some guilds and troupes have their own costume requirements (notably the Irish and St. George) in addition to, or instead of, the overall guidelines. Ask your Guildmistress/master. =============================================== The RPFs are set in Elizabethan England, which means 1558-1603. This is not a vague or generic "Renaissance," and costumes that date earlier or later are not acceptable (the very few exceptions are all rather esoteric cases most people never even see). This wasn't always true, but it has been in recent years. In the same way, virtually everyone at Faire plays a character in the British Isles (English, Welsh, Scottish, Irish). There are very few "foreigners." As you will hear at the Costume workshop, the definition of an "approvable" costume depends on two things: (1) what was worn during the Faire's historical period, and (2) the theatrical effect that Costume is trying to create. Fundamentally, it's up to the "goddesses of Costume" to decide what they will accept. To get an approvable costume means you have to know what they want. If you haven't actually worked Faire before, you will almost certainly have to come up with all or most of a new costume, since Costume's requirements are very specific. If you already have something they'll accept, you're either very knowledgeable or very lucky. At the costume workshop (required for newcomers) you will hear in detail a description of what they are looking for and some common "do's and don'ts." There is a one-page (free) costume flyer you will get at that workshop, and also an eight-page booklet you can buy ($3) from Costume that gives more details and has some simple gridded patterns you can enlarge. Also, after you've been at Faire a few weekends, you will learn to recognize the "look" of an approvable costume. But of course this doesn't help if you are just dying to work on your costume NOW - - which is not a bad idea, since once workshops start you will be busy. Watch for the "Costume FAQ" file posted periodically in this newsgroup . This contains lots of general Faire information and will be very helpful (in fact, read that first, if possible). In case you need reassurance -- machine stitching *is* fine, even if it shows. Everyone ignores it. In fact, many modern shortcuts (such as hidden snaps) are fine, as long as they don't show. Zippers, however, are *out.* BUYING COSTUMES If you don't sew, and don't know someone who will sew for you, and if you can afford it, buying a costume may actually be a very *good* option. In that case, wait till you get to workshops. There are costume vendors at Faire, and during workshop weekends they make a point of selling "approvable" pieces. These will mainly be for peasant and lower-middle-class costumes. (The higher your social status, the more you're on your own for costumes.) Note that while a number of companies now offer mail-order "Renaissance" clothing ready-made, most of them are aiming at the casual "Renn look" and don't necessarily follow RPF standards. And just because you've seen something for sale when you're at Faire as a *customer* doesn't necessarily mean you can wear it as a *performer*. The standards are different. However, the vendors all know the "dress code", and will tell you if something is "approvable" or not. 1995 prices for basic shirts/smocks started around $35-$50 (and up, of course), breeches $30-$65, jerkins $35-$100, skirts $45 -$60 each (remember you need two of them), hats $10-$18 and bodices $55-85. Most vendors give substantial discounts off these prices (10%-20%) to performers buying during workshops. SOCIAL CLASS Many people like being peasants, as it's not only the simplest costume but also the coolest (i.e. the fewest layers) and the easiest to construct. For women the basic garments required are a chemise, two or more skirts, bodice and cap. Everything except the bodice can be made out of simple rectangles of cloth. For men, a shirt, breeches, jerkin and cap. Only the breeches really need a fitted pattern (and not very!). Don't spend a lot of time or money on your first costume. It seems to be a Law of Nature that you will soon want to make a second one, once you've been at Faire, lived in your first clothes for a few weeks, and seen what other people have. If you are middle-class or above, the main things to watch out for are (1) don't overdo the trimming, and (2) don't set your heart on anything shiny. Modern polyester fabrics tend to be shinier than silk (the fanciest fabric of the period) and Costume won't pass them. 100% cotton damask is usually all right, but if you have any doubts at all, show Costume a swatch before you invest large amounts of money. In fact, *that* piece of advice goes for everybody. COLORS AND FABRICS: Stick to natural fibers. In fact, try to avoid polyester *anything*, including interfacing. It's hot and doesn't "breathe." Use 100% cotton canvas if you need to interface something. Most Faire clothing is cotton; the period equivalent was linen, which is better if you can afford it, but is now out of financial reach for most of us. Wool is also VERY appropriate and is not always as hot as you might think (but ask around before you make something). If you ever see a bargain on the kind of raw silk fabric that looks like linen, grab it; it takes dye beautifully, drapes well, and "breathes" wonderfully. Banned colors for most people: purple (the Queen ONLY, they are *very* strict about this), bright red (too expensive, nobles and Landsknechts only), black (too expensive, nobles and Puritans only). If you really like red, try burgundy, maroon, or rust color. If you are just dying [pun] to wear a deep purplish blue, be sure to show a swatch of your fabric to Costume to be sure they don't think it's purple. Colors that are not "period" and/or not approvable include most shades of pink, most pastels ("Easter egg colors") except dusty or grayed shades, and most really brilliant colors (though there are some bright yellows, greens and blues that work). Teal (greenish blue) is period, but still banned because it looks so "90s". The same goes for blue denim (other colors of denim are OK). Wearing a green skirt - - especially a green underskirt - - implies that you take a lot of tumbles in the grass (amorous ones, that is). Corduroy is *not* approvable for peasants at Faire. It *is* a period fabric, and by the Elizabethan era was no longer an expensive luxury fabric. The problem is theatrical: from a distance it looks like velvet, and peasants did *not* wear velvet. It's okay for the upper classes. This is the narrowest, "pinwale" version of corduroy; the "wide wale" versions are modern and not approvable. HATS AND CAPS Everyone at RPF must wear at least one hat or cap - - men *and* women. You can even wear two at once - - a basic cap with a straw hat or "flat hat" over it. Partly this is "period", as most people did keep their heads covered; partly it's a RPF rule because it *looks* more period, and partly it's just practical in hot weather. Caps also hide 20th century short hairdos, green hair, and other anachronisms. The standard "muffin cap" (a gathered bag with a headband) is cheap, comfortable and easy to make, but it doesn't necessarily look good on everyone (you may think it makes your face look fat). Look at yourself in a mirror with one on and decide if it's right for you. A more closely fitted "biggin" cap may look better. "Flat hats" look good on practically everyone. SKIRTS & APRONS It's a RPF rule that women must wear at least two skirts; three or four is even better (outer skirts and petticoats). The outermost skirt can be looped up and tucked into the waistband to show the underskirt. The "main" skirt hangs better and looks more authentic if it's fairly heavy in weight, but dress-weight fabric will work too (goodness knows there's *enough* of it in a full skirt...). The overskirt and petticoats can be as lightweight as you like. Oddly enough, you don't see very many women wearing aprons in the street. I think Costume would like to see more of them, especially on people who are supposed to be working. "Period" aprons were usually straight (a rectangle of cloth with ties) or drawstring types, not gathered onto a waistband like modern ones. Another nice thing about being a peasant is that you don't have to worry about a corset or a farthingale (hoop skirt). Only women in the upper and middle classes wore them. FITTED BODICES If you've done a lot of sewing, the major difference you'll notice is that Elizabethan bodices have NO DARTS. So your first step in modifying a modern bodice pattern is to pin or tape the darts in the tissue paper pattern closed, and then pretend they aren't there. Shaping was done at the side seams (which could be slanted) but the front pieces are smooth and flat. This pushes your bosom upward and flattens it, providing support. Many well-endowed women say this is actually *more* comfortable than a modern bra - - no straps to dig into the shoulders. Your bodice should come all the way down to your natural waistline. Shorter bodices and high waistlines, sometimes thought of as "Renaissance," belong to earlier centuries and other countries and are not approvable. Most bodices have a pointed waistline in front. They can, but don't have to, have "tabs" or "wings" at the shoulders and around the bottom. Bodices can lace up the front (peasants), the back (common for higher classes at Faire) or at the sides of the back (more authentic than center back). Lacings at the normal side seams will make you look heavier. Watch your neckline; many people (mistakenly) think the lower, the better. Yes, necklines were low, but not so low you fall out of them. If you have something you want to flaunt, fine, but Costume says, "Whether you have cherries, apples, cantaloupes or casaba melons, we want to see no more than half the fruit, and NO stems!" Boning here and there (at least center front and back) keeps the bodice smooth and flat. Metal boning can be hard to find if you don't live in LA or the Bay Area. The plastic stuff doesn't really stand up to all-day wear and will bend and warp. Costume sells 1/2 inch spring steel boning; it can also be ordered from LACIS, 3163 Adeline St. Berkeley (510) 843- 7178. It comes pre-cut with the ends rounded, in inch lengths from 4" to 20"; price varies with length but figure on about $1 each plus the $3.50 minimum charge per order for shipping (call for exact prices). GROMMETS Metal reinforcing eyelets or grommets (on bodices and elsewhere) are not "period" but you *can* use them. Some (not all) guilds require that they be camouflaged; easiest is to cover them with thread, stitching over and over from the center hole over the edge after they're installed. This works, at least on large grommets, and it's tedious (about 20 minutes per grommet), but not terribly difficult. Look for embroidery floss that matches your fabric and use three or all six strands together. Smaller eyelets in the 16th century were made like small circular buttonholes, sometimes reinforced with a lightweight metal ring (try a large jump ring) on the inside or outside. BREECHES Elizabethan men wore knee-length (or shorter) breeches, not full length. Only a few people wore full-length trousers - - mostly the poorest of peasants doing fieldwork, who needed the extra leg protection - - and even they almost always bound them closely to the leg below the knee with thongs or strips of cloth. The easiest knee breeches are made from a clown suit pattern; make them full, cut the pattern off about six inches below knee length, and put elastic in the bottoms (non-period, but it doesn't show). Wear them just below the knee and they'll look properly baggy. This pattern works very well for bloomers also. DRAWERS Bloomers - - which the Elizabethans called "drawers" - - are not "period" attire for 16th-century Englishwomen, who mostly wore no underpants; but they're a good idea to wear under all those skirts. Especially if you plan on dancing, performing or wearing a farthingale. I heard that several years ago one well-hooped lady, who was (authentically) *not* wearing modern underwear, tripped during a show on Main Stage and her skirts flipped up, Revealing All - - fortunately to the rest of the cast, not the audience (this is supposed to be a family show). Drawers can be loose at the bottom (more authentic) or have elastic at the knees (so you can attach your stocking tops to them). There seems to be an informal contest to make drawers out of the most outrageous fabric possible, since they probably won't be seen. But if they *are* seen, neon orange printed with power tools, or pink plaid, will break the 16th century mood we are trying so hard to create, so plain white or a solid dark color may be better. STOCKINGS Very few Elizabethans went barefoot or bare-legged, except the poorest of the poor. So you need to put something on your feet. Ordinary, plain, commercially knitted knee socks in an appropriate color will do, though of course they are machine-made. The Elizabethans didn't have anything so finely knitted (theirs were more like 6 to 10 stitches to the inch). But as Costume says about machine hemming, no one is going to lie down on their stomach and check your socks that closely. Do be kind to your feet and get cotton if you can. Men wearing "slops" or breeches that stop above the knee should wear tights (again, cotton is better). No bare leg should show at any time, even if you're a peasant. SHOES With the current fashion for rounded toes, it's easier to find good "period" shoes than it used to be. You will be on your feet a lot, so wear something with a good sole. Those cheap black Chinese cloth or "kung fu" shoes *look* fine, but you feel every pebble you walk over because the soles are so thin (she said feelingly). Good insoles help, and for that matter a good support insole is a good idea inside any shoe. Spenco is one good brand that's easy to find. Don't forget to buy new insoles once a year or so. If you are buying new shoes especially for Faire, try to hold off till you see what other people are wearing and get an idea of what's acceptable. Rules of thumb are: (1) rounded or squared toe, not pointed; (2) no lace-up shoes, look for strap and buckle or T-strap fastening; (3) a one-piece toe with *no* seams, decorative or otherwise (this is harder to find than you might think). One currently fashionable type of shoe has a toe cap and heel cap, but just a sole connecting them; these are fine, but you may have problems with gravel getting in under your insteps. At least one shoe vendor at Faire has good prices at their "last weekend of Faire" sale if you decide you need new shoes for next year. FAVORS, ACCESSORIES, AND STUFF A tankard or goblet (depending on your social class) is a necessity. You will drink lots of water at Faire. A pouch, a knife, and a napkin or handkerchief hanging from your belt are extremely practical as well as decorative. You won't look "right" without at least one or two accessories. One *non*-period accessory is encouraged; women may wear small bells on their clothing "because they sound so nice" (they were actually out of fashion by the 16th century). Many people also wear a number of "favors" here and there, usually given by friends - - knots of ribbon, little medallions or pins, etc. The saying is you can tell how long someone has been at Faire by how much "stuff" they have hanging on them. An essential, invisible accessory: don't forget to wear SUNSCREEN. ANACHRONISMS Beware the Big Three: sunglasses, wristwatches, and cigarettes. All three are no-no's while you're in costume and "on stage" (i.e. visible to the public). Soda cans are another no-no. Pour whatever you're drinking into your tankard and call it ale (light ale, dark ale...). A few BAGS of various sizes are handy: small ones to hang about your belt to conceal your salt tablets, checkbook and other necessities; big ones of burlap or similar fabric to disguise 20th-century objects left in your guild yard during the day. You can actually get away with carrying almost anything around at Faire, as long as it's wrapped in burlap! COSTUME APPROVAL The line is shortest on Registration day; if your costume's done then, wear it and get it approved. Try not to be offended if what you've done is critiqued -- especially not if Costume approves it anyway!. They will very often find something that *could* be improved, even in the best costume, and they are not at all shy about saying so. In 1995 they looked *me* over, stamped my card, and said, "Just take the satin ribbon off that favor you're wearing." (There was all of two inches of the stuff, and they'd passed it the year before.) On the other hand, you may not get compliments even for a very good effort; if they approve it, consider it praise. Remember they have hundreds of people to inspect; if they don't want to chat, don't take it personally. RESOURCES: There is a Faire Suppliers FAQ posted periodically in this newsgroup; updates are welcome. Two places in particular that get consistently good reviews, and that carry lots of odd costume stuff, are LACIS and ALTER YEARS ( formerly "Raiments"). Lacis has been mentioned under "Bodices." AlterYears is at PO Box 93095, Pasadena, CA 91109. Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10 to 5 you can phone them at (818) 797- 2723; Fax: (818) 791-9434 (24 hrs) and e-mail <72437.674@compuserve.com>. Both will do mail order and are run by great people who love costumes. The "Bible" for RPFI costuming is _Elizabethan_Costuming_for_the_ years_1550-1580_, by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. It's hard to find outside of Faire, and I'm told the publishers don't do mail order, but both Lacis and AlterYears carry it. It's $15 plus shipping and sales tax. This provides very detailed discussion for all social classes. The most recent (2nd) edition is 1983, and while it is not a scholarly work (people have pointed out some oversimplifications and a few errors) it will probably tell you all you need to know. ===================================================== NOTE: this information has been checked with informed sources and is as accurate as possible, but since it's not official, I can't guarantee its complete accuracy. *Things change.* If you need The Definitive Answer, please get it directly from Faire headquarters staff. İİİİİİİİİİİİ Copyright 1997 Chris Laning İİİİİİİİİİİİİİİ _________________________________________________________ O "Mistress Christian," a.k.a. Chris Laning | + Davis, California _________________________________________________________ ------------------- Headers -------------------- Path: lobby01.news.aol.com!newstf02.news.aol.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!chi-news.cic.net!newsxfer.nether.net!stdio!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!howland.erols.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!su-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com! news.igc.apc.org!usenet From: Chris Laning Newsgroups: alt.fairs.renaissance Subject: RPF Costumes FAQ v.1.1 (regular posting) Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 19:17:20 -0800 Organization: Institute for Global Communications Lines: 395 Sender: claning@igc.apc.org Message-ID: <33695CBD.6DFC@igc.apc.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp21.igc.org Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Macintosh; I; PPC)